Süleymaniye

SONY DSC Süleymaniye Mosque is the largest mosque in Istanbul and sits on one of the famous seven hills of Istanbul. This picture was taken from our lunch spot.

suleymaniye-mosque-437633-sw (Photo credit: http://photography.nationalgeographic.com/photography/enlarge/suleymaniye-mosque_pod_image.html) This mosque was built for Süleyman the Magnificent, by the famous architect (mimar in Turkish) Sinan in 1550. It took seven years and more than 3500 men to build it. Mimar Sinan designed the well-known Sultan Ahmed Camii (Blue Mosque), as well as 92 other large mosques, 48 bath houses, 8 bridges, 6 aqueducts, 3 hospitals, and the list goes on. He is well known in Turkey and his architecture is very well respected. When the mosque was finished, Mimar Sinan was the first to open the door to pray. He is now buried at the front of the mosque.

mosque This is a picture of Süleymaniye when I was in Turkey in January. On the far left of the picture you can see a tower. That tower shines green at night and if you’re close by, you can tell which mosque is Süleymaniye because of that tower.

SONY DSC This pictures shows the two larger minarets (or small towers). There are four on Süleymaniye, with ten balconies, representing Süleyman the Magnificent, the tenth sultan of the Ottoman Empire.

SONY DSC The courtyard was so peaceful and empty when we first arrived.

SONY DSC Mosaic tiles with an Arabic saying, found in the courtyard.

SONY DSC The inside dome along the edge of the courtyard, more mosaics.

SONY DSC The courtyard entrance. When we first got there, it was pretty empty, but as we were leaving we went to take more pictures of the outside and a huge tour group went in after us. Somehow we avoided the huge crowds right before they got there…well everywhere except for Topkapı Palce (I’ll get into that in another post!).

SONY DSC The first view is just breathtaking. It’s so much bigger inside than you would imagine (58x57x53 meters, 190x187x173 feet).

SONY DSC The low hung chandiler makes the huge space seem a little more cozy. And I really enjoyed the choice of carpet. It looks like an aqueduct (which Mimar Sinan did design), but it also looks like separate prayer rugs, neatly placed in lines.

SONY DSC The dome. This picture does it no justice because it is so much more beautiful than this. The dome is a height of 53 meters (173 feet), and the diameter is 26.4 meters (86 feet). When it was built, it was the highest dome in the Ottoman Empire, but still it is smaller than Hagia Sophia (currently standing at 55.6 meters, or 182 feet).

SONY DSC  The pillars, as you can see in this picture, line the perimeter of the mosque and support the weight of the dome. Sinan masked the pillars and pushed them into the walls so people could see the openness instead of pillars everywhere. Smaller domes, surrounding the main dome also distribute the weight evenly. The half-domes, or smaller domes, to support some weight of the large dome has a similar style to Hagia Sophia.

SONY DSC Inside you had to take your shoes off, similar to the Blue Mosque. There were many shoe/cubbies near the entrance, and you can get a baggie to put your shoes in. But women also had to wear scarves on their heads. If you don’t have one with you, you can borrow one of their’s, like I did (I’m not sure how sanitary it was though). There were small shops near the mosque that sold various tourist-y things, including scarves, so if you’re a little squeamish, I’d recommend that (plus you can never have too many scarves).

SONY DSC There are more than 200 stained glass windows. One of the stories Süleyman told me about Süleymaniye is that it was built with extremely good acoustics. So good, in fact, that the architect was using nargile (similar to hookah in the states), and the bubbles from the container could be heard all over the mosque. Tobacco isn’t allowed in Islam, so when Sultan Süleyman heard, he was so angry he threated to end Sinan’s life for disrespecting the mosque. Sinan calmly responded that nargile has no tobacco and no smoke even, he only used it to hear the bubbles.

SONY DSC Because this is still a working mosque, and not a museum, during prayer times it was closed off to tourists. But even when tourists are allowed in, some people still use that time to pray.

SONY DSC While we gazed at the beauty and took pictures, a small prayer group started. Süleyman told me when there is a group of people praying, one person will become the leader, like an Imam, and guide the other Muslims through a prayer.

SONY DSC After lunch we went on a walk and found a café with rooftop seating. We drank kahve (Turkish coffee), chocolate for me, pistachio for Süleyman. This was his view.

SONY DSC This was my view. I had complained how just by chance he would get the better view, and I wouldn’t notice until we left. But I think we tied this time. I had never seen the Bosporus or Golden Horn so blue.

SONY DSC The water directly behind us is the Golden Horn, entering the Bosporus on the right. You can just barely see the Bosporus bridge near the top of the picture. Also, behind Süleyman’s right shoulder, across the river, is Galata Tower, sticking out high above the buildings.

Sources:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S%C3%BCleymaniye_Mosque

http://www.istanbultrails.com/2008/06/if-you-dont-visit-the-suleyman-mosque-now-youll-hate-yourself-later/

Dolmabahçe

I’m so sorry for not updating in a while, my mind has drifted away and forgotten to do this!

Dolma: filled-up, stuffed; and bahçe meaning garden.

It is located in Istanbul, on the European coastline of the Bosphorus strait, near Taxim. It served as the main administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1856 to 1922.

It took 13 years to built the palace (between 1843 and 1856), and cost five million Ottoman gold pounds (the equivalent of 35 tons of gold). Sultan Abdülmecit I, the 31st sultan of the Ottoman Empire, commissioned the construction.

It is said that 40 tons of silver and 14 tons of gold were used for the decoration of
the palace. In fact, the palace’s gilded ceilings feature gold leaf details; they used 14 tons of gold leaf for that alone.

This is the largest palace in Turkey, with 285 rooms, 46 halls, 6 Turkish baths, 68 toilets and 1427 windows.

SONY DSC This was the main “front” entrance to the palace grounds.

SONY DSC The fees to get in. We only went to the “official part,” because Süleyman believed that the family house was boring (and too expensive). We both used our student IDs, only 5 Lira. Really, it would have been about $20 to enter the entire palace, and it only cost us about $2.50.

SONY DSC The absolutely massive front doors. The palace grounds were so big, I’m sure you could sneak in and no one would find you for months… that is, if they had no security.

SONY DSC The “side gate,” equally as beautiful as the front or anything else here.

SONY DSC Suleyman and me at the side gate.

SONY DSC This is the main, “official” building that we got to tour. It was breathtakingly beautiful inside and out, the walkway was lined with flowers and behind me, there was a beautiful fountain.

When we entered, we could only go through with a tour guide. They had walking tours with English and Turkish speakers about every 15-20 minutes, so it wasn’t long of a wait.

Unfortunately ours happened to be extremely annoying. He said, “If you were royalty you could (do this), but you’re not” over and over again. That was pretty much all he was telling us. He didn’t really mention much about importance of certain objects or answer anyone’s questions clearly. He really was a terrible tour guide. Süleyman had been there before and tried remembering certain details, but only mentioned that the fireplace was important and this was important. So, alas, no fun histories, only what I found online.

SONY DSC I guess this was because we were in a very old palace and had to preserve it, but we had to wear these plastic footies over our shoes. TIP, it’s slippery. They put carpet down, you know to preserve it, but I guess it wasn’t enough, so footies it is.

Well, one of those things we weren’t allowed to do was take pictures inside, and Süleyman, being super hardcore BA, took pictures anyway, so enjoy these awkward angled, somewhat blurry pictures.

SONY DSC this was the ceiling in one of the first rooms in the palace. And this is just one of the many intricate designs on the ceilings.

SONY DSC Some beautiful chandeliers, and the carpet, complete with ropes, to make sure no one was going off track. (Follow the red carpet road, follow the red carpet road…)

SONY DSC Seating.

SONY DSC Some beautiful mirrors, and a hand-made Turkish rug, of course.

SONY DSC Oh look the footies! This is the grand crystal staircase.

crystal-staircase (Picture credit: http://citylifepicture.wordpress.com/2012/09/05/crystal-staircase/) Made into a “double horseshoe” and is made from Baccarat crystal, brass and mahogany, one of the key places you’ll want to see in the palace.

SONY DSC The ivory and silver candelabra, incense holder, standing in front of the door, was a gift of Ahmed Ratib Pasha, the governor of the Hejaz in Saudi Arabia, to Sultan Abdulhamid II.

SONY DSC More details on the ceiling. (P.S. that’s super-blurry me on the right)

SONY DSC A bear skin that I have to assume is hundreds of years old. A website I found said that there were bearskin rugs given as a gift from the Tsar of Russia.

SONY DSC A gasp-worthy porcelain vase. And look at that beautiful wood floor?

SONY DSC The library.

SONY DSC And more ceilings.

SONY DSC Now this was the crème de la crème. The main room. The grand Ceremonial Hall where rulers of countries would come together and chat with some tea (I’m assuming). It was a gift from Queen Victoria of Britain, to the Ottoman Empire in the late 1800s. It is so gorgeous it was hard to take my eyes off of it and leave the palace.

SONY DSC Our tour guide claimed this chandelier second heaviest chandelier in the world (the first is in Qatar). But online, I found it at#5. I know it’s not that impressive, but stick with me.  It weighs 4.5 tons (that’s 9,000 pounds, or 4082 kilograms) and has 750 lamps on it, not to mention the weight it bears on your chest as you look at its immense beauty.

ceremony (Picture credit: http://www.flickriver.com/photos/twiga_swala/tags/hall/) During the years 1910 – 1912 Dolmabahçe Palace received its central heating and electrical systems. This picture is very hard to see (I’m sorry!), the groups of column have a metal grate where they meet the floor. (The columns to the left of the chandelier have a brown stripe near the floor then a more tan stripe, and the tan stripe is what I’m talking about.) Suleyman told me about this when we were leaving, the tour guide failed to do so. The heat was under the floor and heat rises, so it would go out the vents and heat the whole room. Similar rooms were built like this.

SONY DSC The domed ceiling of the Ceremony Hall. This was the last stop in our short tour; it was about 25 minutes long.

SONY DSC Suleyman and me after our tour.

SONY DSC Can you find me in all that marble?

SONY DSC One of the many Bosphorus entrances.

SONY DSC In the garden were roaming peacocks and cats (per usual), but also a weird bird we couldn’t identify and more livestock-type birds.

SONY DSC I met this homeless cat (with no name), and immediately fell in love. I won’t bore you with the details, but this is by far my favorite cat on earth. I was so sad to leave him there.

SONY DSC We also went into the “Dolmabahçe sarayı camlı köşk” (Dolmabahçe palace glass pavilion). Here is the gorgeous metal work on the stairs.

SONY DSC Each of these figures were candle holders or lamps, and were peacocks. They were very beautiful.

Süleyman told me that the sultans would come up to the glass pavilion and watch his people, he would feel closer to them  when he did. Unfortunately, many people forget about this building, and it was very difficult to find information about it online, let alone pictures.

Because it’s out of the way when you’re about to leave the palace (as you leave, it’s on your right), many people skip over it. I believe there was an extra fee to get in, but I’m not sure how much. But it was quite a gem. The inside (as you’ll see soon), was very beautifully decorated and Süleyman could not sneak another picture of the ceiling, which of course was beautiful. There were intricate paintings of lions near the ceiling, as lions are the kings.

SONY DSC The vast room (and the security guard).

SONY DSC Inside the entrance hall.

SONY DSC We got on a bus nearby as we left and got to see the famous room from the window. This was the best shot I could get.

dolma1 (Photo credit: http://georarchy.com/Detail/22280) This is a much better, (non-roped-off) more clear picture, just to show how beautiful it was inside.

dolma2 (Photo credit: http://wikimapia.org/20467487/tr/Caml%C4%B1-K%C3%B6%C5%9Fk) Here’s a professional picture I found online. This was taken from inside the palace grounds, near the bird houses.

SONY DSC The clock tower. We went to this clock tower when I was in Turkey in January, and Süleyman kept calling it the watch tower. Now this is after we had been to Galata Tower, another watch tower. He was so confused when I asked him if they spotted many fires from this “watch” tower. He had compared watch to the watch on your wrist…or a clock. We straightened it out eventually.

Dolmabahce Clock Tower is a clock tower situated outside Dolmabahce Palace. The tower was constructed by the  architect Sarkis Balyan between 1890 and 1895 with the order of Ottoman sultan Abdul Hamid II. The four-story tower stands at a height of 89 feet (or 27 meters).

Dolmabahce Palace has a great meaning for Turkish people since the founder of the Turkish Republic, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, had used the palace as a residence and spent the most serious period of his illness there.  He passed away in this palace on November 10, 1938 at 9:05 AM, all the clocks in the palace are stopped at this time. At 9:05 on November 10th every year, for the entire minute, people honk their horns, bang their pots, make noise, etc. to pay homage to their great founder.

Sources for information:

http://www.dolmabahcepalace.com/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolmabah%C3%A7e_Palace

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolmabah%C3%A7e_Clock_Tower

http://www.travellinkturkey.com/dolmabahce.html